Reference Talk — Vacheron Constantin Overseas 1st Generation Ref. 42040, 42042 and Ref. 42050, 42052
1st Generation Overseas — Powered by the spirit of travel and openness to the world
Production date 1996 to 2004
Almost 20 years after the release of the 222 Vacheron Constantin launched the Overseas, a revised direction for their sports luxe offering. Produced from 1996 to 2004 the 37mm Overseas was powered by the cal 1310 (cal 1311), a COSC certified version of the ultra-flat automatic Girard-Perregaux 3100 featuring a quickset date, 150M water resistance and hacking seconds. Also released was a smaller 35mm ‘mid-size’, 24mm ladies (Quartz & automatic) and an extremely rare left hand version made in only 3 pieces.
The design team behind the 1st generation Overseas included Dino Modolo a independent designer and Vincent Kaufmann a young in-house designer today heading the VC design team.
Following on from the time/date models a Chronograph was later introduced to the Overseas lineup in 1999.
The launch of the Overseas was deemed to be a great success and went on to lay the solid foundations of further generations of the Overseas line that are still produced today.
References Explained
Ref. 42040 = 37mm
Ref. 42042 = 37mm
Ref. 42050 = 35mm
Ref. 42052 = 35mm
Ref. 42040 (37mm) and ref. 42050 (35mm) were the first to be produced. The reference number changed to ref. 42042 (37mm) and ref. 42052 (35mm) when the movement was upgraded from the caliber 1310 to the caliber 1311. Both case sizes share the same movement and we’ll look at this in detail later on.
The change in caliber denotes the reference. It is unknown when the movement upgrade took place however it is presumed to be early in the production making the 40 & 50 models few and far between. There are examples of transitional pieces that were constructed during the upgrade period making it rare but not impossible for a ref. 42040 to house cal. 1311.
Ref. 42041 (Left Side Crown )
Ref. 42041 Credit: Paul Boutros — HOKDINEE 2014
“Only three left-handed Vacheron Constantin Overseas watches produced - and the most exciting watch I've purchased in quite some time. These three were the very first Overseas watches, custom made in 1996 for Johann Rupert, chairman of the Richemont Group - a lefty who wears watches on his right wrist. It even has a unique reference number - 42041 versus 42040 used for regular production models. With his name engraved on the clasp, they were given to him to both test drive and commemorate his purchase of the brand that year - just prior to the official launch of the Overseas line.”
Case Sizes
37mm vs 35mm. Credit: _lanaturaetutto_
Ref. 42040(2) features a 37mm case while the ref. 42050(2) a 35mm case, seen as the ‘mid-size’ option. The 2mm difference is comparative in wrist presence to the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 4100 vs 14790.
Both model measurements are taken across the width of the case excluding the crown and crown guards resulting in more wrist presence than indicated on paper.
As with any sub 40mm reference I would strongly recommend getting hands on with the piece as the way it sits is often surprising.
Dial Layout
The dial layout is the easiest way to visually identify a 37mm model from a 35mm. The date window on the 37mm ref. 42040(2) features a small lume triangle to the right which is not present on the 35mm ref. 42050(2).
42042, small lume triangle at date window. Credit: Watch Club
42052, no lume triangle at date window. Credit: HQ Milton
Dials Variants
‘Sigma’, ‘T Swiss Made T’ & ‘Swiss Made’
The first first batch of dials for the ref. 42040(2) and ref. 42050(2) were generally ‘Sigma’ stamped at the 6 o’clock marker featuring Tritium lume. Interestingly Patek and Vacheron were last to use ‘Sigma’ on their dials before moving to ‘T Swiss Made T’.
There is no clear date when ‘T Swiss Made T’ first appeared on the dial. It is a common misconception that all ref. 42040 are ‘Sigma’ signed and all ref. 42042 are ‘T Swiss Made T’ signed, this is not the case, the reference change was linked to the movement upgrade. ‘Sigma’ dials have been seen on ref. 42042 models up to early 2000’s with some of the later examples also featuring Luminova.
Finally the ‘Swiss Made’ dial featured at the very end of production with Luminova permanently replacing Tritium. These dials have also been found on service replacements.
‘Sigma’ Dial, Credit: WatchFinder
‘T SWISS MADE T’ Dial, Credit: Bukowskis
‘SWISS MADE’ Dial, Credit: Gioielleria Bonanno
It is important to note that the construction of components for the Overseas, including the different dial iterations, are not as linear as people would presume. Dial color popularity, varying production numbers, and the use of older parts if still available all contributed to this.
GENÈVE vs GENEVE
A less noticeable grave accent has also been seen above the second ‘E’ in GENÈVE, printed on the dial below Vacheron Constantin, on a number of ‘Sigma’ and ‘T SWISS MADE T’ Dials. Originally thought to be a feature of the first batch of Sigma dials it is since appeared on Sigma dials on models as late as 2000’s and numerous T SWISS MADE T dials.
GENÈVE Sigma Dial. Credit: Watch Guy (dial color is White)
GENÈVE T SWISS MADE T dial. Credit: Christie’s
Non Lume Dials & Straight Font logo
Predominantly found on Yellow Gold examples that were sold with a brown leather strap as opposed to the gold bracelet. These models also feature a straight font ‘Vacheron Constantin’ logo, differing from all other models. Information on these are very hard to come by, if you have anything you are willing to share please email us.
‘SWISS MADE’, non lume dial. Credit: Gioielleria Bonanno
Straight Font logo. Credit: Time Peaks
Leather band fitted to these models. Credit: Time Peaks
Dial Colors
Throughout production the Oversea's came in 5 color ways. White and Blue being the most common followed by Black, next up is Grey with the ‘Salmon’ (rosy beige according to official Vacheron Constantin press releases) being the most highly sought due to its rarity.
42050 White. Credit: Unknown
42042 Blue. Credit: European Watch Company
42052 Black. Credit: Unknown
42042 Grey. Credit: European Watch Company
42052 ‘Salmon’. Credit: Watch Vault NYC
Gold Models
While the exact numbers are unknown White appears to be the most common followed by Blue and then Black. Gold models are notoriously heavy on the wrist with the 37mm model weighing in around 215g.
42052J White. Credit: Jakublwatches - watchprosite
42042J Black. Credit: Antiquorum
42050J Blue. Credit: xupes.com
Guilloché vs Sunray Finish
There are two prominent dial finishes seen across the Overseas 1st generation models. Only the White dials feature the decorative Guilloché finish while Blue, Black, Grey and ‘Salmon’ are all produced in a sunray finish.
Arabic dials have a matte finish and are discussed below.
Guilloche white dial. Credit: Bukowskis
Sunburst ‘Salmon’ Dial. Credit: A Collected Man
Arabic Dial
Rare ‘Vacheron & Constantin’ logo dial. Credit: Greatpa - omegaforums.net
Similar to Audemars Piguet, Vacheron Constantin produced an Arabic dial variant of their luxury sports model in the 90’s - early 2000’s. Arabic numerals ensuring optimal readability.
For Vacheron Constantin their offering came in both Black and Blue variants with the prominent luminescent numerals protruding the dial giving a slight 3rd dimensional effect. Both Black and Blue dials were matte finish, further distinguishing themselves from the rest of the Overseas line. The Blue dial is thought to be limited to 75 pieces produced for the North American market.
Interestingly there have been some early Black examples come to market featuring the logo mark, ‘Vacheron & Constantin’, the addition of the ‘&’ most certainly lighting up the eyes of many collectors.
42042 Black Arabic. Credit: Sothebys
42042 Blue Arabic. Credit: Greatpa — watchuseek
Patina & Degradation
As is the case with Patina, there are a number of reasons why a dial may change from its original color and texture, such as but not limited to, UV exposure, physical wear, tritium burns and moisture. Below are a number of examples that have come to market.
As with watch collecting in general it is of course up to the collector to determine what they find most attractive.
42040 Credit: Time Peaks
42040 Credit: Frezer — Chrono24
Caseback
Signature feature of the Overseas collection, a solid case-back adorned with a depiction of the famous Amerigo Vespucci three-masted ship. Seen as a symbol of the world’s greatest sailors travels and an open invitation to travel the seven seas in-fitting with the brand story for the Overseas collection.
Credit: A Collected Man
42042 Credit: Massimo Dalla Costa — watchprosite.com
Clasp Styles
Most Common Clasp
Throughout production most 1st Generation Overseas were fitted with an interesting slide-lock clasp that also features a second locking mechanism via the clam shell Maltease flip-lock. The flip-lock snaps into position via ceramic pin with a trigger to lock the mechanism in place.
Flip and slide-lock clasp.
Maltease Clam Shell flip-lock. Credit: Greapa — Omegaforums.net
‘Open/Closed’ slide-lock mechanism. Credit: Bachmann & Scher
Towards the end of production the clasp was upgraded to a butterfly closure clasp. It was thought the slide-lock clasp was rather fiddly and the cause for a number of service issues.
Butterfly clasp. Credit: Tick Talk — watchuseek
Movement
Cal 1310
For the ref. 42040 and ref. 42050 Vacheron Constantin took the Girard Perregaux cal 3100 based ebauche, renamed as their own cal 1310 and COSC certified. The cal 1310 features a gold rotor weight, and 27 jewels. It’s automatic, has a quick-set date function, hacking seconds and a 46 hours power reserve. Total height of the ultra thin movement was around 3mm.
Introduction of the Cal 1311
The strengthened cal 1311 was Vacheron Constantin’s revision of the cal 1310. This is believed to have taken place not long after production of the 1st generation Oversea’s began. This change increased the thickness of the movement by 0.3 mm however no change was made to either case for ref. 42042 or ref. 42052. The modification is thought to be made due to flex in the mainplate so reinforcement was added.
Girard Perregaux 3100
Vacheron Constantin 1310
What’s In The Box
What does a full set looks like?
A staple set will include the inner leather box, COSC certificate and the Certificate of Origin Warranty.
More complete sets can also contain a number of further documents and accessories such as the Service Leaflet, International Warranty, Vacheron Constantin Brand Booklet, original enveloped given to the buyer (sticker showing movement number), outer cardboard box and the Overseas Instruction Booklet (this fits in the compartment on the underside of the inner box).
Some extra accessories you may find are the clear bezel protector and swing tags.
Credit: Greatpa — Omegaforums.net
When looking at a set with a number of accessories you should be able to find the matching movement number across 3 of the items, COSC Certificate, Certificate of Origin Warranty and the original envelope (sticker). See below.
Get in Touch
As always this is a working document and any feedback or insights to further the communities understanding of these models would be greatly appreciated. please do feel free to reach out to me.
Huge thanks to @watchdilettante, @_lanaturaetutto_ & @mystery_shore for helping pull this together, couldn’t have done it without you.
