Reference Talk — Vacheron Constantin 222 Ref. 44018 and Ref. 46003
Credit: rarebirds.de
Brief History
The 70’s was a bold new era for watch design, the Swiss watchmaking industry was on its knees with the ‘quartz crisis’ but in times of change and unknown a new genre of watches emerged, the ‘luxury sports watch’.
In 1972 Audemars Piguet introduced the Royal Oak followed by both Patek Philippe with the Nautilus and IWC with the Ingenieur SL in 1976. The famed Gerald Genta was the mastermind behind these 3 designs however it was the designer extraordinaire Jorge Hysek who designed the 222 for Vacheron Constantin.
The iconic 222 was launched 5 years after the first ‘luxury steel sports watch’ in 1977 to mark the 222nd anniversary of the Maison, the oldest watch manufacturer in continuous operation of over 260 years.
“The term ‘Luxury Sports Watch’ might not seem particularly unusual to collectors and timepiece enthusiasts in today’s luxury timepiece market. But in the early 1970s, a sports watch was made with an active user in mind, and a luxury watch was designed for dress wear – the two never really intersected.”
70’s ‘luxury sports watch’ icons, from L-R Royal Oak, Nautilus, Ingenieur SL and the 222. Credit: HODINKEE
Production
1977 - 1984
Vacheron Constantin produced the 222 in a number of case sizes and even shapes. This article will focus on the flagship model ref. 44018 known as the ‘Jumbo’ and the ref. 46003 ‘Midsize’.
Vacheron Constantin also introduced a 25mm ‘Quartz’ and 31mm a ‘Square’ model during the short production run. Across all variants production lasted just 7 years being replaced in 1984 by the 333, a rectangular evolution.
Original 222 Add Campaign showing the 3 round sizes available
Vacheron Constantin 222 Ref. 44018
Ref. 44018 Credit: rarebirds.de
‘Jumbo’ 37mm case size
Ref. 44018 is powered by the ultra-thin, automatic calibre 1121, Vacheron’s take on the renowned Jaeger LeCoultre caliber 920 used in the Patek Philippe Nautilus and the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak.
The Jumbo was produced in very limited numbers around 700 pieces total. Predominantly found in stainless steel the Jumbo was also available in 18k yellow gold, 18k yellow gold/stainless steel (two tone) and white gold. There are also a very limited number of diamond set examples.
The 222 Jumbo was made in far fewer numbers than both the Royal Oak and Nautilus. For comparison total 222 production (all metals) was only around a quarter of original A-Series Royal Oak Jumbo.
Vacheron Constantin 222 Ref. 46003
Ref. 46003 Credit: nobeluhren-store.de
‘Mid-size’ 34mm case size
Ref. 46003 is powered by the caliber 1124 (JLC 899) with date and central seconds, also produced in the same metals as the ‘Jumbo’. Unlike the ‘Jumbo’ production numbers for the mid-size are some-what unknown however it is thought they were produced in even smaller numbers, around 250 across all metals.
The ref. 46003 is to Vacheron Constantin what the ref. 3800 is to Patek Philippe and the ref. 4100 is to Audemars Piguet. In terms of fit it wears slightly larger than the ref. 3800 however comparative to the ref. 4100.
Other 222 Models to note however not covered in this article
Ad showing a variety of 222’s inc the ‘square’ ref. 46003 and ‘quartz’ ref. 2006
Ref. 46004 ‘Square’
With its unique 31mm ‘square’ case the ref. 46004 is believed to have been produced in only 300 examples across all metals (steel / steel & yellow gold / yellow gold). This model is powered by the caliber 1124.
Ref. 6001 & 60701 ‘Quartz’
Originally aimed at the female market the 25mm quartz models came in a variety of case metals and diamond settings.
…Model 333
In 1984 the model 222 was replace by the 333, a rectangular evolution.
222 replaced by the 333 in 1984
Design Deep-dive
Both ref. 44018 Credit: europeanwatch.com
The 222 was a radical breakaway from Vacheron Constantin’s traditional dress watches with many design cues taken not only from the emergent suite of luxury sports watches but numerous models from their past.
Thanks to its unique character, over the past 40 years this iconic model has become one of the most recognizable Vacheron Constantin designs.
Find below a breakdown of the different variants and components that make up the ref. 44018 & ref. 46003.
— Tonneau Case
Ref. 44018 & ref. 46003 share the same striking tonneau case shape in 37mm and 34mm respectively (excluding crown). The case is a clever monobloc construction, similar to other watches of the era, featuring sharp facets and angles. Interestingly the case features an anti-magnetic shield and together with the screw-down bezel provides a water resistance of up to 120m. Finally the case features the distinctive Maltese Cross at the lower right of the case top.
Case thickness for the ‘Jumbo’ is slightly over 7mm with the ‘mid-size’ very similar.
Ref. 44018 Credit: europeanwatch.com
Maltese Cross. Credit: europeanwatch.com
Hallmarks on case-back. Credit: Heritage Auctions
— Dial Variants
Ref. 44018 vs Ref. 46003
Both references feature VACHERON CONSTANTIN at 12 with AUTOMATIC stamped above the 6. They also both feature a framed date window at 3 with Tritium lume filled channel hour markers.
From the dial there is one clear tell between the references that can be easily identified, the Ref. 44018 displays ‘Swiss’ only at 6 o’clock vs ref. 46003 ‘Swiss’ Sigma signed. An exception to this rule can be found for diamond-set and numeral dials where ‘Swiss’ only is used across both references.
Ref. 44018 ‘SWISS’ only. Credit: europeanwatch.com
Ref. 46003 ‘SWISS’ Sigma. Credit: nobeluhren-store.de
Steel Case Dial Variants
The original dial colors available were ‘Black’ and ‘Silver’. These dials however take on many looks depending on the light conditions, from black/dark grey/blue and from silver to almost white.
Ref. 44018. Credit: europeanwatch.com
Ref. 44018. Smooth finish on the black dial. Credit: europeanwatch.com
Ref. 44018. Appears almost white. Credit: HODINKEE
Ref. 44018. Close up texture on the ‘Silvered’ dial. Credit: Unknown
Yellow Gold Case Dial Variants
Yellow gold models replaced the ‘Silver’ dial with a smooth ‘Champagne’ dial. Numeral dial has also been found on a small batch of gold ref. 46003.
Ref. 44018 Credit: rarebirds.de
Ref. 46003 Credit: nobeluhren-store.de
Ref. 46003 Credit: theoandharris.com
Steel & Yellow Gold Case Dial Variants
Steel and yellow gold models feature the same ‘Champagne’ dial as the gold models and the same ‘Silver’ dial of the steel models. These were the only two options I’ve found to be available.
Ref. 44018 Credit: wristicons.com
Ref. 46003 Credit: theoandharris.com
Diamond Dial Variants
Extremely rare diamond dials have also come to market, featuring 11 brilliant cut diamonds at the hour markers. I have only found these dials on models where diamonds are featured elsewhere either on the bezel and/or bracelet.
Ref. 46003. Credit: Antiquorum 34mm
Ref. 44018. Credit: watchguru.com
Patina
A number of watches have been seen with varying levels of patina across the dial creating wonderful tones from deep blues and light brown hues + more. If you have any photos of patina on 222 dials please do send them in.
Ref. 44018 Credit: _lanaturaetutto_
Ref. 44018 Credit: thegentlemansjournal.com
Ref. 44018 Credit: quilandpad.com
— Handsets
Although both the ref. 44018 & ref. 46003 share the same hand designs across the models the ref. 46003 features a seconds hand which is an easy tell for identification.
Most commonly seen are the baton lume hands, these are present on all the standard model configurations for the 222 ‘Jumbo’ and ‘mid-size’. With the numeral dial leaf hands can be seen and ‘some’ diamond dial models have been seen with dauphine hands.
Worth noting all quartz model came with non lume baton hands unless diamond dial then again dauphine hands are present.
Baton handset. Ref. 44018. Credit: rarebirds.de
Dauphine handset. Ref. 44018. Credit thekeystone.com
Leaf handset. Ref. 46003. Credit: theoandharris.com 34mm
— Bezel
The 222 features a unique screw-down scalloped bezel, also seen diamond-set. The bezel design itself was thought to be influenced by the1951 ref. 4709 (pic below).
Ref. 4709 Credit: luxwatch.ua
Ref. 46003 Credit: nobeluhren-store.de
Ref. 46003 Credit: Heritage Auctions
Bezel Tool & Removal
What’s really interesting about the bezel is it is the key to accessing the movement. The only way to reach the movement is by removal of the screw-down bezel that requires a special tool, pic below. Due to this it makes servicing a 222 extremely difficult by independent watchmakers if they do not posses this tool.
Bezel remover tool. Credit: nobeluhren-store.de
Bezel removal to access dial and movement, Credit: Cazalea - WatchProSite
— Caseback
The case-back features the distinctive 222 branding with case numbers further engraved below. Interestingly the case-back cannot be removed, even though it looks like a separate component. As mentioned above the only way to access the movement is through the dial by removing the bezel. Hallmarks are also present on back of the case/lug area.
Inside the case again the case number is present along with the model reference, for example 46003 seen below.
Ref. 46003 Credit: Cazalea - WatchProSite
Credit: Heritage Auctions
— Iconic Bracelet
The 222 integrated bracelet features the iconic hexagonal center-links with the same design shared across the models. The bracelet is connected to the case via screws from the case side.
Credit: HSTE WatchProSite
Credit thekystone.com
Ref. 44018 Credit: SJX Watches
Credit: Unknown
Example diamond-set bracelet
For diamond-set bracelets there has been a variety of settings come to market, pic below showing diamond-set center-links. Note the diamond-set center links are removable.
Ref. 44018 Credit: watchguru.com
Removable diamond-set center links. Credit: watchguru.com
— Clasp
Both the ref. 44018 and ref. 46003 feature the Gay Frères double-blade folding clasp with safety catch. For yellow gold models the clasp metal is white gold with hallmarks present. The safety catch features the Maltese cross, this appears more pronounced on the ‘Jumbo’ however polishing may distort this.
Ref. 46003 Credit: nobeluhren-store.de
Maltese Cross on safety catch. Credit: europeanwatch.com
Steel clasp Credit: wristicons.com
Gay Frères double-blade folding clasp with hallmarks. Credit: nobeluhren-store.de
Movement
The 222 mid-size distinguishes itself from the larger model not only by its smaller diameter, but also by the use of a different movement.
Ref. 44018 ‘Jumbo’ is powered by the ultra-thin, automatic calibre 1121, Vacheron’s take on the renowned Jaeger LeCoultre caliber 920 used in the Patek Philippe Nautilus and the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. For the ‘Mid-size’ ref. 46003 the movement of choice was the caliber 1124, based on the Jaeger LeCoultre caliber 889 with date and central seconds.
Caliber 1121, based on the Jaeger LeCoultre caliber 920. Credit: moonphase.fr
Caliber 1124, based on the Jaeger LeCoultre caliber 889
What’s in the box?
222 advertising campaign
There have been numerous ‘sets’ come to market over the years, many actually displaying a variety of box and/or Guarantee styles. While there doesn’t appear to be a source of truth on the matter at this point we can look back at the paper ads for what the original ‘Jumbo’ set may have looked like. Most interestingly the set features a ‘money-clip’ that fits in place within the box. To note the inner box opens up to reveal a compartment for the service and warranty booklets. The warranty booklets in these ads are square and the Maltese Cross on the booklet front aligns with the cutout within the box. Also the bezel remover tool is thought to be part of a full-set along with the swing tag.
This is not confirmed information, but an observation of marketing materials and sets that have come to market. As for the ref. 46003 ‘mid-size’ there is even less to go for what a ‘set’ would comprised of.
If you have further information on this please do get in touch.
Examples sets to hit the market
Rectangular Guarantee. Credit: HODINKEE
Square Guarantee. Credit: matthewbaininc.com
Full Set inc bezel tool and money clip featured Nov 2020 Philip’s Geneva Auction.
The legacy continues with the Overseas…
The 222 went on to inspired the Overseas collection, more on this at a later date. In the meantime you can find this brilliant video/article series about the evolution of the Overseas from Monochrome. Follow this link.
Finally, Vacheron Constantin Accounts to Follow
Find below a number of my favorite accounts to follow.
