Reference Talk — Rolex King Midas 9630, King Midas ‘Cellini’ 3580 and 4315. Plus Symmetrical and Case Only References
Special thanks to Manuel Knospe @plusultra_ch & Gai Gohari @morillo55 for their knowledge and contribution.
The Rolex King Midas first appeared in the 1962 catalog aptly named after the mythological Greek King Midas, for everything he touched turned to gold.
Introduced in 1962 the King Midas has enjoyed a colourful history, starting life as a limited run before becoming a staple model in the Cellini series. Designed by Gérald Genta, pre Royal Oak and Nautilus, the watch was made to look like the Greek Pantheon (Temple of Gods). When turning the watch on its side the triangular tip resembles the temple roof, while the bracelet grooves represent the columns. Continuing the Greek Mythology the solid 18k gold watch was given the name ‘King Midas’ honoring the myth that everything he touched with his left hand turned to gold. The left hand part is important as it was the inspiration to fit the crown on the left of the case.
In addition to being the heaviest gold watch of its day the King Midas was also the most expensive Rolex model, roughly 30% more expensive than the Day-Date at the time.
With its hefty price tag and niche aesthetic it found itself adorned to the wrist of not only movie stars but the refined and eccentric. For Rolex this was a watch that really tapped into a niche captivating the watch world with its polarizing appeal.
Find below a deep-dive on the classic King Midas (series 1,2 and 3) followed by an exploration of the Midas Cellini successors both asymmetric, symmetric as well as case only references.
The Classic Asymmetric Bracelet Models
Ref. 9630 — King ΜΙΔAΣ Dial (1st Series)
Production 1962 to 1972
Ref. 9630, Philip’s
The ref. 9630 is the original King Midas watch. Commonly thought to be produced in 1000 pieces it was actually produced in less than 800 total between 1962 and 1972 — exactly 144 in 18k white gold and the rest in 18k yellow gold with a very small number of models exhibiting diamond dials. One of the most impressive aspects of the King Midas is the hand production, each model carefully crafted by highly skilled goldsmiths which of course makes each model very slightly different in terms of weight and finish.
The ref. 9630 is also the first of very few limited runs produced by Rolex, the other well known reference being the ref. 5100 Beta21 in 1970.
Key Characteristics
Case & Crown — A lessor known detail is the first ~250 examples did not feature "KING MIDAS" engravings on the case (crown side), this was added slightly later, see pics below. Being handmade it is common to see the case engravings slightly differ in appearance and position. Finally the case is roughly 4mm making creating an ultra low profile on the wrist.
The saw tooth winding crown is found on the left side due to the mythology previously mentioned, that everything King Midas touched with his left hand turned to gold. The crown is also designed to portray the sun above the Greek temple (pointed case).
You may see some ‘right hand drive’ King Midas on the market, it is possible to rotate the dial so the crown appears on the right although this is not commonly done and requires slight modification.
Ref. 9630 early case no engraving, Plus Ultra
Ref. 9630 later case with engraving, HQ Milton
Dial — Ref. 9630 dial featuring the ΜΙΔAΣ print with Rolex at 12 and SWISS at 6. There have also been a small number of diamond dial ref. 9630 that have come to market over the years. Interestingly the dial is protected by sapphire glass, one of the first models to receive this material in the Rolex lineup. The dial features no markers or seconds hand.
Ref. 9630 Midas dial, HQ Milton
Bracelet & Engravings — The bracelet is constructed from multiple solid gold links, 3.77mm thick, almost matching the case thickness. Turing over the bracelet you can find the production number, model ref. and case number. The 1st and 2nd series share the same bracelet and are often listed as ‘MASSIVE’, this is referring to bracelet thickness which is the same as the mid-case, series 3 bracelet is thinner and lighter which will be covered further down.
Ref 9630 bracelet same thickness as mid-case, Unknown
Bracelet engravings, HQ Milton
Double Deployant Clasp — The double deployment clasp brings each side of the band together and secures into place with Rolex Crowns attached either side of the clasp. The inside of the clasp has the words "King Midas by Rolex of Geneva" engraved on it.
Ref. 9630 double deployant clasp, Bobs Watches
Ref. 9630 double deployant clasp, Bobs Watches
Movement — The ref. 9630 is powered by the ultra-thin caliber 650 (developed by Piaget) with a height of 1.8 mm x 20.8 mm diameter, featuring 17 jewels. The movement is manual winding featuring hours and minutes only.
Caliber 650, Chrono Shop
Caliber 650, Chrono Shop
Ref. 3580, King Midas ‘Cellini‘ (2nd Series)
Production — 1972/3 to 1976 (Short production run)
Ref 3580 Cellini production no. 881, Dr Crott Auctioneers
King Midas Cellini was the successor of the limited run ref. 9630. While no longer a limited series it had a short production run and was actually made in less numbers making it even more rare. The ref. 3580 can be found from production number 800 onwards and it was thought 500 total were produced, a small number were in white gold with the majority in yellow gold.
Having originally being born as an independent line the King Midas began its historic transition into the Rolex Cellini line with ‘Cellini’ replacing ‘Midas’ on the dial and Genève appearing below ‘Rolex’ being the only key update. Everything else remained the same including the design, bracelet, deployant clasp and weight. The ref. 3580 also shared the same caliber 650 however the very last 3580’s may feature the updated caliber 651.
Ref 3580 (shown) shares the same thick bracelet as the ref 9630, HODINKEE
Early Ref 3850 Cellini Dial no. 881, Dr Crott Auctioneers
There is a slight exception, ‘some’ very early ref. 3580’s have featured the Midas dial, see below, the reason for this is unknown however it is not unlikely that left over ref. 9630 ‘Midas’ dials were reused (especially on the early ref. 3580 models) or of course swapped in at a later date.
Besides the dial another way to identify a ref. 3580 from a ref. 9630 is the production number (800 or higher = ref. 3580) with the ref. no. clearly engraved on the inside of the bracelet.
Ref. 4315 — King Midas Cellini (3rd Series)
Production — 1977 to 1978/9
Ref. 4315, The Keystone
The classic asymmetric King Midas continued in the Cellini line as the ref. 4315 in 1977 with a number of design updates.
Most notably design change is the thinner bracelet, now at 3mm and visibly thinner than the case it changes the weight and feel of the watch quite dramatically. Interestingly the reduction in gold weight aligned with the soaring gold prices in the late 70’s.
Ref 4315 thin bracelet, The Keystone
Other changes include the introduction of the single fold clasp and finally the underside screws to aid with bracelet removal. The upgraded caliber 651 is consistently used in the ref. 4315 with the dial featuring ‘Cellini’ branding.
Ref. 4315 single fold clasp, Hashtag Watch Co
Ref. 4315 showing bracelet screws, no.5059, Hashtag Watch Co
Ref. 4315 caliber 651, no.5059, Hashtag Watch Co
Ref. 4609 Diamond Set Case
Production — circa 1975
Ref. 4609 no.3077, The Keystone
Ref. 4609 no.3119, Christie’s
Most notably the ref. 4609 features a diamond set case and has been with seen with both ‘Midas’ and ‘Cellini’ dials. Although the ‘Midas’ dial was retired from the classic asymmetric model in 1972 you will see it appear across a number later references throughout the article. Again, as mentioned previously, the reason for this is unknown however it is not unlikely that left over ‘Midas’ dials were reused or saved for exotic variants/models never cased, we must remember Rolex of the 70’s was very different to today.
Ref. 4344
Production — circa 1975
Produced with a number of dial variants the ref. 4344 standout feature is of course the ribbed case and integrated bracelet, also featuring the single fold clasp.
Ref. 4344, Gray and Sons
Ref. 4344 single fold clasp, Gray and Sons
Symmetrical Bracelet Models
Production — 1975 to early 1980’s
Ref. 4611 no.3XX2, Matthew Bain Inc
As the King Midas entered the Cellini range Rolex began to create a variety of models stemming from the original design, the model number reflects total production with roughly 6000 total being produced across all King Midas/Midas Cellini bracelet variants including the original ref. 9630 limited run.
Explored below are a number of symmetrical designs produced throughout the mid/late 1970’s. In a similar manner to to the asymmetric models a small number of models still featured Midas on the dial post 1972. Interestingly access to the movement was changed from screws to snapback with most models featuring the caliber 651.
Ref. 3584 & 3585
The ref.3584 can be found with a mixture of Midas and Cellini dials. This reference is famed for exotic dial materials such as the Lapis stone dial. The clasps features a double deployant however very different to the original ref. 9630 and the bracelet is also the thicker and heavier variant. The symmetrical variants also had Queen Midas counterparts, here the ref.3585 features a smaller dial.
Ref. 4312 Milanese
Ref. 4312, Unknown
Ref. 4312, Unknown
Thin and light the ref. 4312 wears very differently to other ‘symmetrical’ King Midas variants. The milanese bracelet is of course hand made with the dial complimenting perfectly. This is a personal favorite.
Ref. 4316
Ref. 4316, Gruenbergwatches
Ref. 4316 ‘Onyx’ no.2932, Sotheby’s
Ref. 4316 was somewhat of a core model for the symmetrical King Midas Cellini and was produced in many variants from exotic dials to pave dials. The ref. 4316 featured the single deployant clasp and thin bracelet type, again powered by the caliber 651.
Ref. 4316 numeral dial, The Collector of Watches
Ref. 4316 Tiger Eye dial, Christie’s
Ref. 4316 ‘Lapis Lazuli’, Plus Ultra
Ref. 4611
Ref. 4611 no.3531, Somlo
Ref. 4611 no.3XX2, Matthew Bain Inc
In almost identical fashion to the ref. 4316 the ref. 4611 can be found in a variety of styles however Midas appears more consistently on the dial.
Ref. 4620 Baguette Sapphire
Ref. 4620 Baguette Sapphire, Antiquorum
The incredible ref. 4620 features a brushed bezel set with 20 baguette sapphires, white gold baton hands and the caliber 651.
Ref. 4342
Ref. 4342 no. 3303, Christie’s
Ref. 4342, Touch of Modern
With strong design cues from the classic King Midas series the ref. 4342 features a ‘symmetrical’ pointed case (pointed either side), single deployant clasp and thin bracelet type. This piece can be found in a variety of dial variants.
Midas Cellini Asymmetric Case Only Models
Production — Mid 1970’s to late 1980’s (some models appearing in catalogs as late as 1990’s)
Ref. 4017, Rarebirds.de
Although inspired by the King Midas the Cellini strap line feels and wears very different. With the weight and price of the bracelet models so high these pieces offered buyers a more affordable and comfortable alternative. Although born in the 70’s this watch oozes 80’s style and saw its popularity increase during this period.
The case only models can be found in both symmetrical and asymmetrical form however it was the latter that played host to the most references and variants. The case only models also saw the transition from the outsourced caliber 651 to the in-house caliber 1600 and later 1601 (early 80’s).
Caliber 1600/1, Rolex’s in-house take on the 650/1.
Ref. 4017
Ref 4017 ‘Dot dial’. Classic Watch NY
Ref. 4017 with hour markers, Swiss Watch Expo
Ref. 4017 with reptile effect dial, Bonhams
Powered by the caliber 1600, produced in both white and yellow gold and available in a multitude of dial variants the Ref. 4017 could be seen as the core reference for Cellini strap line.
Ref. 4017, Rarebirds.de
Ref. 4017 with 3,6,9 batons, Unknown
Ref. 4031
Ref. 4031, Twain Time
Ref. 4031, Watch Centre
Pavé diamond-set with diamond 3,6,9 hour markers the ref. 4031 is a stunning adaption of the classic ref. 4017.
Ref. 4126 — Hobnail
Ref. 4126 with bracelet, Watch Centre
Ref. 4126, Second Time Around Watch Co
A favorite case only model of mine is the Hobnail ref. 4126. Seen here with the optional gold band or the classic asymmetric leather band.
Ref. 4015 — Ribbed Case
Ref. 4015, WatchBox
Ref. 4015 Roman Numeral dial, Swiss Watch Expo
Ref. 4151 & 4153 — Enamel
In the early 80’s other materials began to appear, here the ref. 4151 and ref. 4153 feature glossy enameling with applied golden roman numerals at 3,6,9 &12.
Ref. 4151 Enamel bezel, Unknown
Ref. 4153, Heritage Auctions
Ref. 4912 and 5038
Both models feature a mixed metal case, this has also been seen very rarely on a full bracelet reference. Ref. 4912 with YG/WG and ref. 5038 with YG/WG/RG (Tridor).
Ref. 4912 YG/WG case, Unknown
Ref. 5038 Tridor, Amanico — Watch Pro Site
Midas Cellini Symmetrical Case Only Models
Production — Late 80’s
Find below an introduction to the rectangular Cellini references. These wonderful cases started to appear in catalogs throughout the late 70’s/early 80’s and were some of the last of the classic King Midas DNA.
Ref. 4012 horizontal ribbed case, Plus Ultra
Ref 4016 vertical ribbed case, Swiss Watch Expo
Ref 4014, Swiss Watch Expo
Ref. 4127 hobnail, Morrillo55
This is not an exhausted list of references however we hope it is enough to get you started/help you dive deeper into the incredibly diverse selection of King Midas and King Midas Cellini watches.
Presentation Box
Now a collectors item in its own right, the King Midas boxset is a rare commodity, one of if not the most eccentric design to house a Rolex watch. This boxset was known to accompany ref. 9630, 3590 & 4315 at purchase.
Outer Box
The outer box is visually stunning depicting King Midas sat on his throne with the Rolex crown just above. Made from thin card and with the small production numbers of the Original King Midas this box is rarely seen for sale or accompanying a set.
Outer box Credit: Rolex Magazine
Inner Box ‘King Midas Urn’, Unknown
Inner Box
To describe the box I quote Nick Foulkes for Revolution Watch who in my opinion put it perfectly.
“The urn-like box of the Rolex King Midas is a black box shaped like the mythical Midas stamnos, with scenes depicting Silenus led before Midas in red… The famed Midas stamnos, a lidded pottery vessel combining aspects of vase and amphora, was created around 440 BC, the black ground is decorated with red figures depicting Silenus led before Midas. The incident recorded on the two-and-a-half-millennia-old stamnos is the moment at which the satyr Silenus, found drunk by peasants, is brought before the Phrygian monarch Midas, who recognises him as the teacher of Dionysus and treats him honourably, extending several days of hospitality before returning him to Dionysus who, in thanks, grants Midas the famous touch that turns all to gold. This scene is reproduced on the lid of the chalice-shaped Rolex King Midas “stamnos” which is further printed with a battle scene from classical antiquity.” — full article here
The urn is constructed from a tough material and covered in black leather. The inside lined in red suede and hosts the rarely seen inlay (removable part), often lost from box sets. The inlay has a small mount to hold the watch upright in position.
Special Thanks
Huge thank you to both Manuel Knospe and Gai Gohari for their knowledge and contribution, this article would not have happened without them, be sure to reach out if you are looking for a particular King Midas reference.
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