What is 'One Week With'?: Before we begin, let me provide some context on this story and the future of this series. 'One Week With' is a feature where I'll be spending a whole week wearing a watch available on WBLDN, capturing my impressions and sharing additional images.

While this format isn't entirely new, the focus will be on the real-world wearing experience rather than a disguised review. Too often, stories like these read like traditional reviews, which can feel disconnected when discussing a watch from 30 years ago. Furthermore, being on a platform where the watches in focus are available, "review" isn't quite the correct term. Instead, this series is about firsthand experience, bringing insight through wear rather than critique intended to 'better' a product.

When Chopard in the late 20th century comes to mind, the same few names often top the list. Think St Mortiz, the first generation of Mille Miglia, and the original LUC 1860. But ask collectors of neo-vintage watches, and you may be met with slightly under-the-radar names and reference numbers, including the Luna D'Oro.

Despite the brand's history stretching back to 1860, the watchmaking arm of the manufacturer came into its own in the 1990s under the stewardship of Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, the son of Karl Scheufele III, who acquired the brand from the Chopard family in 1963. Often, the story goes that success isn't always guaranteed once a brand leaves the original family's ownership. In the case of the Scheufele's, that cliché didn't happen. Working closely with his family, Karl Scheufele III instructed his son, Karl-Friedrich, to lead the watchmaking department. This wasn't an easy task at the best of times, let alone during the 1990s. Watchmaking shifted towards quartz technology, with the mechanical wristwatch dropping in demand. That was until the collectibility of watchmaking took off with a newfound appreciation for its artistry, romance, and handmade craftsmanship. In 1993, a small team of watchmakers took the first steps in delivering in-house watchmaking to Chopard, with the most revered model being the Calibre 1.96. Before the in-house era, the production of watches didn't stop with the release of the Luna d'Oro in 1994.

Examples of the Luna D'Oro include tonneau cases, more traditional three-register configurations, triple date realisations, and even day date examples in smaller sizes. However, with more off-piste design elements, this QP 1206 has a distinctive charm. Measuring 36mm in width with a lug-to-lug coming in at 40.2mm and a thickness of 9.4mm, this round yellow gold example has a little more proprietary styling than other configurations. Externally, the traditionally mid-size case features short, squat lugs that flow into the rounded mid-case before a large domed bezel with the inclusion of somewhat surprising crowd guards. That's because this watch offered water resistance when it was new, and the crown is actually a screw-down. Water resistance, a screw-down crown, and crown guards aren't typically words you expect in the same article as 'yellow gold', 'perpetual calendar', and '36mm', but we'll get onto that.

This theme of rounded executions continues with the dial as the retrograde date arches over the Chopard signature. While subtle, the hour and minute hands are rounded at the end, tying together all the matching elements. Developed by the genius of Svend Andersen, the retrograde module date is read through an arrow hand in gold and is paired with the Jaeger LeCoultre 888 base calibre. The twin registers sit lower on the dial at 3:30 and 8:30, while the moonphase at six appears to be a form of glass, with a vibrant blue jumping out of the dial depending on the light.

Unconventionally Conventional

On paper, this is a very traditional watch. It's a precious metal perpetual calendar from a legacy brand with a respected heritage for producing celebrated watches. It comes in a conservative size with a movement that mentions Jaeger LeCoultre and Andersen Genève. Details include a railroad track, petite-applied markers, a moonphase, and heat-blued hands.

Yet, in execution and on the wrist, I can't look past its striking unconventionality.

The domed bezel, the lumed hands, crowd guards, a screw-down crown, water resistance, and the overall round personality of the case. Everything feels familiar while simultaneously unexpected. As such, that level of juxtaposition makes it incredibly endearing, with a wrist presence that leans into its underdog status. Typically, when we look at perpetual calendars from the era from similar manufacturers, we find that they're almost always extremely formal in their case aesthetic. Think of examples from Breguet, Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin, and Audemars Piguet. We're dealing in the realms of straight, longer lugs, stepped bezels, defined and, ultimately, traditional case lines. After wearing the Luna D'Oro, everything is softer and more casual. The only completely flat surface of this case is the caseback, and that commitment to round has a profound effect on not only the casual potential of the piece but also its overall personality.

In many ways, it is more suitable for wearing regularly in various situations. While the lines are blurring more with what can be regarded as a 'versatile watch', there are certain traits of this Luna D'Oro that favour it being suitable for more occasions. The retrograde date is one of them, as it contributes significantly to the sense of unconventionality. While wearing the watch and looking for the date, the time it takes to decode the retrograde instead of hunting for a date aperture is only a matter of milliseconds, but it does allow for a more engaged interaction with the watch.

Competition For The Chopard Luna D'Oro

They say comparison is the thief of joy, but in the case of this Chopard, I'm prepared to put that joy on the line to provide a complete look at the landscape this Luna D'Oro lives within. To do this, we must go back to when the watch was launched and look at what other perpetual calendars are available from the era, as the chances are, if you're this far into this story, you're not only interested in the Luna D'Oro but also neo-vintage watches.

Patek Philippe 3940

The most obvious place to start is the 3940 from Patek. What was once an overlooked reference has now become one of the most desirable Patek models for collectors outside of any porthole inspiration, and its features make it easy to see why. Also 36mm, also available in yellow gold, and also automatic, the 3940 is arguably the closest watch on this list that mirrors the rounded, soft exterior of the Chopard. As such, its versatility is nearly as decorated as its number of series over the years, famously worn by Philippe Stern as his daily watch for reportedly two decades at the company's helm.

Aside from brand nuances, the main differences between the Chopard and the 3940 are their movements and price points. A 3940 from this era would be a late 2nd series dial powered by the Calibre 240 Q, an ultra-thin calibre with a 22k gold micro-rotor. One of these will start at approximately the low £40,000 (as of February 2025).

Vacheron Constantin Patrimony QP 43031

Once more measuring 36mm in yellow gold, from a true legacy manufacturer, the 43031 by Vacheron is another incredibly tempting proposition. Again, from the 1990s, the 43031 has a little more of a traditional execution, with longer lugs than the Chopard and afore Patek, which are more svelte and straight. As such, the watch wears a little more conventionally 'smarter' than the Chopard, which is only hammered home further with its three sub-register configuration, baton hands, dot minute track, and svelte applied markers.

The comparison to the Chopard gets even more interesting though, as the movement is also a JLC base (this time the automatic calibre 920), and, like the Chopard, the moonphase has an extra level of interest as its lapis lazuli. Today, a Vacheron Patrimony QP 43031 will set up back a little more than the Chopard, priced at £20,000.

Audemars Piguet Perpetual Calendar 25657

Time to make this comparision game even more complex with the Audemars Piguet and the 25657. You guessed it, also 36mm in width in 18k yellow gold, the 25657's dial is closer to the Vacheron's with its baton markers, thin pencil hands, and conventional dial configuration with heat-blued hands, but its case is more Chopard. With its shorter lugs and stepped polished bezel, the 25657, for many, stands as a 'best of both worlds' offering. Audemars Piguet's calibre 2120/2800 automatic movement powers the watch, which also uses a Jaeger LeCoultre ultra-thin calibre as a base, the same 920 as the Vacheron.

The 25657 is the closest in price to the Chopard, starting around £14,000.

Breguet Classique Perpetual Calendar 3050

Breguet is arguably one of the best values in neo-vintage at the moment – a topic I'll be revisiting very soon – and the Classique is very tough to beat. 36mm in width, 8mm thick, a dial made from gold revived in the late 20th century by the legendary Daniel Roth, it's got it all. However, in relation to the Chopard, the 3050 is exceptionally dressy. Now, depending on your style and views on how and where to style watches, this could be a problem or a solution, but it goes without saying that the Breguet hallmarks here are very traditional and, dare I say, 'Classique'.

The 3050 can be purchased today starting from approximately the low £20,000 mark.

Blancpain Villeret Perpetual Calendar 5395

Blancpain during the 1990s cannot be ignored either, and while the Villeret QPs measure closer to 34mm than 36mm, they're comparable to the Chopard. Like the Luna D'Oro, the Blancpain has softer, rounder cases than other pieces, and despite their dials featuring Roman numerals, the hands carry lume. And that's without even mentioning the face depicted within the moonphase. A solid yellow gold Villeret Perpetual Calendar 5395 from the 1980s starts at £8,000.

Gerald Genta Perpetual Calendar G 2123 / 2132

Finally, considering this story is on WatchBrothers London, I can't end without mentioning Gerald Genta at least once. Known for creating wild and expressive pieces, Genta's brand houses some of the most striking and unique watches. Available in 36.5mm, yellow gold, and available with a more traditional round case with lugs, the Genta QPs can be pretty unassuming if you want them to be. Alternatively, you can collect pieces like this 2123.7 with an 'ardoise' slate dial, priced at £18,900.

Closing thoughts on the Luna D'Oro

Compared to other perpetual calendars from the era, not just in value but also in strength of design and individuality, the Chopard Luna D'Oro does more than hold its own. Few perpetual calendars at this end of the market deliver a styling like the Chopard backed up with serious watchmaking credentials.

Chopard's Luna D'Oro brings the battle to some of the more commonplace fan favourites. And I'll be honest, I was very tempted to add this Luna D'Oro to my personal watch box on numerous occasions, such is the appeal of this positively quirky QP.

One Week With: The Chopard Luna D'Oro 1206

Unconventionally Conventional